Video: Monster Waves, Big Risks and Unyielding Passion

Chronicling the career of surfer Greg Long
Staff Writer

“Big waves—that’s my love and passion—and that’s what I’m going to dedicate my surfing life and career toward.” —Greg Long

Greg Long has dedicated his life to surfing big waves—starting at age 15. Since then, he’s stacked a list of accomplishments nearly as tall as the waves he surfs, including being the winningest surfer at the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards and being the winner of the 2009 Quicksilver Big Wave Invitational in Memory of Eddie Aiku.

This video chronicles Long, his waves, how he’s pushed the boundaries of surfing and his progression as a big-wave rider. 

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